Day 4 – Dong Van to Lung Cu, Yen Minh and down to Quan Ba – 140km
The next morning, we went to the most northern village of Vietnam called Lũng Cú, the North Pole of Vietnam. The ‘pole’ itself (entrance fee; 20,000vnđ [$1]) is a tower atop a small hill with excellent views across China from the top.
On the way back, we took a different route, and when I thought I couldn’t be more amazed, we discovered another stunning place! If someone had told me about this view, I would have believed that it was from some fantasy novel or movie. So many hills everywhere! Also, so many kids – some going back home from school and some working. We met three girls carrying baskets with flowers – later that day we got to know that they make special alcohol from it.
In the evening, we arrived at our hostel in a small village called Nam Dam in Quan Ba area. We stayed in Hong Thu homestay (night cost us 70.000 vnđ). It was one of the funniest evenings. The homestay is run by an older couple always smiling and dressed in traditional clothes. They cooked a delicious dinner for everybody, and then they eat with us at the table (100.000 vnđ for dinner per person).
Dinner without drinking rice wine is not dinner in Vietnam. Soon they start pouring shots after shots. They always try to see if the tourist can keep up with them. The night was so much fun. Lee was competing with one man, and I was competing with a girl of the same age as me. I always had to check whether she was pouring the same amount for herself. Many times, she tried to trick me, but I didn’t let her get away with it, and in the end, she gave up. I felt a bit drunk, and my face was super red, but within half an hour I felt okay again. Then others brought some alcohol with poppy heads in it – it was quite tasty. Later, they brought whiskey and started to sing. What a fun night!
21 comments
Ha Giang is such a beautiful, dreamy and peaceful place! It is less touristy compared to Sapa, therefore I could totally immerse myself in the authentic and interesting local life with minority people. And the thrilling loop is absolutely worth trying when visiting Ha Giang by motorbike!!!
Btw, thank you for your informative and amazing blog post!
Hi may I Know in which month did u visit and can you tell me the route you took. I am planning this trip this year in December 2-3 week
Hi Siva,
we were there at the beginning of November. The route is mentioned at the end of this article. I inserted a google map so you can save it in your phone. Also if you go through the article, you will understand the route we took. I hope you will enjoy it as much as we did!
Hi may I Know in which month did u visit and can you tell me the route you took
Hi now that I read about Ha Giang. I’m planning to skip Sa Pa. I have no experience on driving motorbike. Is it still possible to do it so? are the bike stands requires motorbike driving license?
Sorry for the late reply. You should have a motorbike driving licence, however, I know many who didn’t have one in Vietnam. Regarding your zero experience, I would suggest practising a bit before you decide to go. Most of the route has good roads, but you can meet trucks and it is good to be relaxed and know what to do. I wouldn’t suggest driving a bike around Ha Giang to a complete beginner.
This looks incredible and I’m sure your photography skills have something to do with it too! I was planning on doing Sapa and Dalat later in my trip but they may have to be replaced by the Ha Giang loop. Have you been to Sapa/Dalat and would you say it’s worth sacrificing those two locations to spend time in Ha Giang? Thank you!
I don’t feel comfortable biking on my own so I’ve reached out to QT to see how much it would cost to have a guide for 3-4 days.
Hi Irina, I haven’t been to Sapa or Dalat, but what I’ve heard from people who did Sapa, Ha Giang is way more beautiful. Sapa is good for hiking, and Ha Giang is good for riding a bike. Ha Giang is also a more significant area, much more to see and not many tourists. QT provides guides, or you can find someone to join to in one of the Facebook groups – for example, Vietnam is awesome, Vietnam Backpacker Tips, South East Asia Backpacking. Having your guide riding you around sounds good too as you can enjoy the views all the time! 🙂
This looks amazing. Is it posible to do it in 3 days or would that be rushed? When you rent your bike how much do you leave as deposit? Thanks
Hi Ticiano, I would not recommend to do it in three days. There is so much to see. However, if you still want to spend only three days there, then skip some of the locations and visit the main ones. Regarding your question about the deposit, we didn’t leave any when renting our bikes.
Hello Jana! Great article, loved the anecdotes, pictures and video. It was full of life 😊 I see most people have the done the loop clockwise whereas you have done it anti-clockwise. Will you recommend that? Appreciate your advice. Thanks and keep being awesome!
Hello Sandeep! Thank you so much for your amazing comment. We did it anti-clockwise because the guys from whom we rented our bikes advised that. Probably they knew how many people they had sent the clockwise way 🙂
Hello,
This trip seems perfect. We’re two travelers and we’re just hesitating to go by our own or to hire two drivers to go with us, since we’ve never ridden a motorbike… You say it’s possible to learn quickly, but did you learn to ride in the Ha Giang mountain ? Or can it be too dangerous, as the agency say it is (probably to convince us to hire a guide, though :p) ?
Thank you in advance for your advices !
Nicolas
Hello Nicholas,
when are you planning to go? As now the roads are destroyed because of heavy rain and mudslides. We enjoyed the ride as you drive slowly anyway. Have you ever driven a bike? Of course, they are trying to earn extra money and I don’t think you will need a guide. On the other side, you can just look around and he will show you the best spots 🙂
Thank you ?
Hi Jana,
Thank you for writing this story, it has been very helpfull since there is limited info on arranging the loop nu yourself. We are planning on doing the loop on our own in a fee data but we are doubting on whether we should hire a guide. In your opinion, is it necessary to bring a guide along the loop or do you think its easily possible in out own? How did you experience your guide?
Hope to hear from you, thanks in advance!
Stefan
Hi Stefan,
I’m really happy the guide has helped you with arranging the trip. We did it by ourselves without having a guide and it was perfectly fine. The shop we rented our bikes from gave us a map with suggestions where to go on which day and where to stay. Just make sure you have your phone with offline Google Maps of the area and you will be perfectly fine 🙂
Hello, my gf and I are planning on doing this loop maybe just 4 days though… Is it easy to find some guide to come with us (drive the bikes) while in ha giang? I was told it’s cheaper to book from directly when in ha giang.
Did you make reservations ahead at the homestays?
we’re leaving in 10 days, super excited.
Thank you for your answers in advance and thank you for this wonderfull blog!
Hi Fabien!
Four days are perfect! We could do it as well as we stayed one extra day in Du Gia village and walked around a bit. Yes it is easy, if you rent bikes from QT you can also ask for a guide to come with you. I think it is 1 mil per day plus food and accommodation for him. Yep, we didn’t book anything in advance and it was perfectly fine – bikes, hotel, homestays – no issues.
Good luck!
Hi Loes,
I’m really happy you like my article! I love to take photos but always fighting to finish the articles :)) who did you ask to arrange it? I think that’s a pretty big amount to pay for a deposit. Especially, when you are not there yet. I would not pay it. Try to ask QT tours and bikes, they have a hotel and offer a tour guide as well. I’m not sure whether they will go to Ban Gioc, but ask them 🙂 I would love to go to see those waterfalls!
Hi Jana,
I really loved to read your story and admire the pictures taken during your trip! Your map will come in handy 🙂
I’m currently planning a trip through Northern Vietnam myself and I hope you could help me with this question I have. I asked a hostel in Ha Giang if they could arrange a few things for us when coming to the Ha Giang area. E.g. bus from Sapa to Ha Giang, 3 motorbikes, 2 nights in Ha Giang at their hostel, an easy rider accompanying us during the loop etc.
We want to do a big loop of 8 days instead (including Ban Gioc Waterfall as well). Now they are asking us for a 200USD deposit for the arrangement. Is this common?
Is it otherwise easy to ride the loop without an easyrider? 🙂
Hope to hear from you!
Loes